USING DRY-TRANSFER LETTERING

1)       When using dry-transfers, it is ESSENTIAL that the surface be clean of everything including fingerprint oil ! We recommend that you first clean the surface with a bit of tuner cleaner (we like Radio Shack Tuner Cleaner  64-4315…..it is pricey, but it will go a long way if you go easy with it) on a tissue. If freshly painted, be sure the surface is perfectly dry before attempting to letter it. Transfers also tend not to adhere well to a cold surface, so warming it a bit may help. You may even want to warm the transfer a bit near a light bulb before using it. Finally, transfers do not adhere well to a glossy, slick surface, although we have had no problem on chrome.

2)       Remove the plain backing-paper from the dry-transfer, and place the transfer over the surface to be lettered.

3)       Holding it firmly in place, use the blunted tip of a soft lead pencil, rub over the complete pattern to be transferred. Transfer works best with rapid but not hard pressure. The heat is generated by rapid rubbing, causing the transfer to occur….not by hard pressure.

4)       Holding the transfer sheet in place, SLOWLY peel the paper back. If any portion of it has failed to transfer, you can smooth it back in place and rub again.

5)       If you should make a mistake in transferring, a small piece of scotch tape placed over the error will usually remove the transfer.

6)       Place the plain backing paper over the completed job and repeatedly press firmly, slowly, and carefully with your thumb to complete adhesion.

7)       If necessary, any remaining wax residue can be gently removed with a bit of R.S. Tuner Cleaner on a tissue.

8)  Option: cover all decals and dry-transfers with clear coat. Use gloss coat to hide the edges and then apply a couple of coats of Dullcoat over that if you want a flat or semi-gloss finish. Clear finishes protect the add-on graphics during normal handling and use. Otherwise, they may get rubbed and flaked with handling.

USING DECALS

1)       Using sharp scissors, trim the decal to size.

2)       Be sure the surface of the object is clean and dry before proceeding.

3)       Submerge the decal in warm water for no more than 15-20 seconds. Remove, and carefully test to see if the decal will begin to slide off the backing paper. Do not force it. If necessary, return it to the water for a few more seconds.

4)       Place the decal paper next to its location, and carefully slide the decal off the backing and into place.

5)       You should be able to slightly adjust its position within a few seconds. Then carefully blot excess water off it with a tissue or paper towel. Let it set and dry before handling.

6)       If desired, you can apply Decal-Set to dissolve the backing, and cause the decal to set around rivet and other details on the model surface.

USING STICKERS

Stickers are simple peel-&-stick lettering. Trim to size, peel, and apply carefully.

We have been told that over-spraying the stickers with Testors Satin Clear-Coat will greatly reduce the shiny film surrounding the letters.

USING RUBBER STAMPS

Our restoration rubber stamps are top-quality, resulting from a great deal of effort in photographing the actual printing on original equipment, scanning those images into a computer, enlarging them and “cleaning them up”, and then reducing them back to original size to use as the artwork for rubber stamp production.

1)       Be sure the surface to be stamped is completely dry and clean.

2)       If any of the stamps you received have gray vinyl handles (as opposed to wood), it has been suggested to us that these stamps will work better if the black spongy backing is removed. Then glue the stamp back onto the handle. The wood handled stamps do not have the sponge backing.

3)       You may consider it worthwhile to spend a little time making a “jig” to ensure that you place the stamp exactly where you want it. A simple jig only needs to consist of two wood strips attached to each other at a right angle, so that the stamp is placed exactly in the corner of the jig. The jig also allows you to make a 2^nd “hit” in exactly the same spot, if necessary.

4)       In any case, with or without a jig, you want to practice the stamping technique before you make your final “hit”!

5)       We recommend using a clean glass plate and a razor blade to spread a very thin film of ink on the plate. Then press the stamp against the plate to pick up a thin coating of ink. Do not press so hard that you get ink into the “cavities” of the image.

6)       Should you not be happy with your stamping, immediately clean the surface of ink using the appropriate cleaner/solvent. Do not delay; this ink dries quite quickly. Follow instructions on the ink container, but I believe mineral spirits will work.

7)       Be sure to clean your stamp immediately after use by repeatedly stamping it on a clean sheet of paper. We do not recommend applying cleaning fluid to the stamp itself, as it will deteriorate over time.

We stock appropriate ink in white, black, red, silver, and yellow.